1 wrote:I think the issue is more that she won't be able to drive around on the island. I forgot to mention that.

can't she just bring a long extension cord and leave the car plugged in when she's not driving

Bucky wrote:

lethal wrote:I got 2 new tires this weekend. Costco said that one of the tire pressure sensors broke on installation, so they put in a new one. Drove away from the store with no issues. Was driving to work this morning, still no issues. As I was sitting in traffic going to the exit to work, I was rear ended, probably at 5 MPH. No visible damage except a faint license plate frame imprint on my bumper that I don't care about, but the service warning light turned on. I got the other drive's contact info, but I'm wondering if this is related to the crash or if it is related to the tire change and just a latent warning.

tire sensors and service warning light shouldn't be related. Screw on your gas cap tighter and go to autozone to get your DTC code checked and reset for free. Or get a bluetooth OBD thingy and use the torque app to do it yourself.

Yeah, Autozone after work is my plan. Thanks!

lethal wrote:

Bucky wrote:

lethal wrote:I got 2 new tires this weekend. Costco said that one of the tire pressure sensors broke on installation, so they put in a new one. Drove away from the store with no issues. Was driving to work this morning, still no issues. As I was sitting in traffic going to the exit to work, I was rear ended, probably at 5 MPH. No visible damage except a faint license plate frame imprint on my bumper that I don't care about, but the service warning light turned on. I got the other drive's contact info, but I'm wondering if this is related to the crash or if it is related to the tire change and just a latent warning.

tire sensors and service warning light shouldn't be related. Screw on your gas cap tighter and go to autozone to get your DTC code checked and reset for free. Or get a bluetooth OBD thingy and use the torque app to do it yourself.

Yeah, Autozone after work is my plan. Thanks!

I wonder if a collision like that might jiggle the exhaust pipe a bit setting off the service warning light.

Ok so engine light after getting rear ended is prolly an abs or speed sensor on wheel. Get obd code to be sure...

Get their insurance to fix. Don't let them tell you a front abs or wheel sensor "isn't from the rear end accident". Thats crap.
Make sure that don't happen, flip your lid if it does. Its obviously from getting hit from behind.

If it makes you feel better, I just got my truck back from the shop today. 3 bucks shy of $2,000. Brake line blew, rear leaf spring shackle had rusted through, oil pan was almost completely rusted out and the icing on the cake was the rear seal was just about gone, too. Maintenance budget still hasn't come close to what a car payment would equal out to though, so I'll keep it running til then.

Went to Advance after work, they gave me a reader and I plugged it in. No codes came back. I looked at my owner's manual like I should have from the beginning. Manual said that the warning light was for the tire pressure monitoring system. I called the tire shop, they said to bring it in. I went in and they reset the sensor. They said that new sensors were more sensitive, so I might've run over some metal or something and it could have knocked it out. I don't know if I should believe that, but it looks like getting tapped from behind with my brakes on knocked out the monitor in my front left tire, which was replaced just the day before. No warnings on for now. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I have an annoying steering wheel clanking that appears not dangerous and there's a TSB out for it but no recall. The part is literally a dollar but it's a 2 or 300 dollar fix because you need to take apart the whole goddamn steering column.

Oh yeah, I got an interim recall notice in the mail about my passenger side airbag. They'll issue a final recall notice when the parts are available. In the meantime, they recommend that no one sit in the front passenger seat. That's not really a practical solution for most people?

Sunroof won't close today. Better than yesterday!

After being without a car and relying on public transport for 3.5 of our 5 years here, we broke down and bought a car this week. Need it with the second baby and getting diapers, emergencies, etc. Bought a Skoda Yeti. Anyone know anything about them?

No one does. Yeti are mysterious.

JUburton wrote:I have an annoying steering wheel clanking that appears not dangerous and there's a TSB out for it but no recall. The part is literally a dollar but it's a 2 or 300 dollar fix because you need to take apart the whole goddamn steering column.

did you buy it new from a dealer? If so, I would take it in and tell them how disappointed you are that the company isn't taking care of it just because it isn't "dangerous." And then say that next time you'll look elsewhere if this is how they back their products. Comfort and a lack of distractions DOES affect safety, so I would throw that in there. And tell them you'll be speaking to them again if you are in an accident and it can in any way be tied to the problem, even if it was just distracting you.

If the part if only a buck, then they would just be taking care of the labor, which is just a matter of assigning one of their people to it. They are out very little since I doubt they wouldn't be able to fix another car just because they took some time to fix yours.

Or maybe they'll tell you to bugger off, but it's worth a shot

WheelsFellOff wrote:No one does. Yeti are mysterious.

You'd think they'd be good in the snow.

I got it because it was under 12k and only has 20k miles on it. That's a rare find in the land of overpriced everything.

FTC warned, very specifically, VW dealers not to use deceptive practices regarding the buy back of TDI's. Implying that the program is somehow closed, or getting the cars in now gets the best deal (the settlement is not yet final), or any other menacing language around "sell now" tactics. [url=around "sell now"]link[/url] Curiously I got a letter from a Honda edaler that lists my value of the vehicle at approximately the remaining loan amount, oddly specific, then suggests that they will make me a deal that is about $1900.00 more then "Black Book". That figure is ~$10K less the VW might pay out at current rates in the proposed settlement.

I placed the local call to the FTC, and the poor POC told me that this is not uncommon at all, and they are 'bringing down the hammer' on any and all of these 'special offers'. They want my letter to smack Honda around a bit. Strange times we live in.

Is there a chance that they do not know I have a TDI? Sure. Can the Government sort it out? You bet.

a Honda dealer is not a VW dealer so they can do whatever they want

That is not true. Insinuating that they are giving you the best deal while the settlement is uncertain, but clearly more lucrative creates a problem, deceptive in the least. FTC is apparently very interested.

Just traded in our 2013 Hnda Fit for a 2016 model. We went whole hog. Leather seats, Navi system, satellite radio capability. Much better gas milage -- better than 30 MPG. Runs much better. Bigger and really solid. All for ten grand with our trade in. (Got 13 large for the 2013. Yowsa.). Had two Honda dealerships fighting for our business. The dealerships probably get bonus for getting rid of 2016 models by the end of July.

smitty wrote:Just traded in our 2013 Hnda Fit for a 2016 model. We went whole hog. Leather seats, Navi system, satellite radio capability. Much better gas milage -- better than 30 MPG. Runs much better. Bigger and really solid. All for ten grand with our trade in. (Got 13 large for the 2013. Yowsa.). Had two Honda dealerships fighting for our business. The dealerships probably get bonus for getting rid of 2016 models by the end of July.

I was at Yowsa with you putting down $23K for a FIT. I had a serious doubt that you were being completely honest when you said leather, but its true. I configured a 2017 with everything and got to just under $25.

Start price with nothing for a Fit is ~$16K, so it was a worthy test. BTW - Honda Navi blows. They might all blow, but the GPS/infotainment in my 2016 Acura is a sh!tshow. Waze is so much better.

My 2011 Sonata has always had a bluetooth echo so I finally did some googling and found that it's the bluetooth firmware on my radio. So I order a replacement radio off of ebay (32 bucks, says it's tested and working) as it seems people on the internet have done to fix it. It's a relatively simple install though it took me forever to work the panels off and unplug those fucking molex connectors.

And everything seems to be working just fine until I go to connect the bluetooth and it's stuck at a loading screen. I go into the radio diagnostic and the BT: field is empty like there's no BT radio/firmware. Wonderful.

JUburton wrote:My 2011 Sonata has always had a bluetooth echo so I finally did some googling and found that it's the bluetooth firmware on my radio. So I order a replacement radio off of ebay (32 bucks, says it's tested and working) as it seems people on the internet have done to fix it. It's a relatively simple install though it took me forever to work the panels off and unplug those fucking molex connectors.

And everything seems to be working just fine until I go to connect the bluetooth and it's stuck at a loading screen. I go into the radio diagnostic and the BT: field is empty like there's no BT radio/firmware. Wonderful.

Bought a 'new' used one (after the refund from the busted one) and this time it only took me about 20 minutes to do the swap and everything works perfectly. Haven't made a call to confirm the echo is gone but I think I'll be OK there. Very pleased with this development.

With this newly gained confidence I bought and gapped spark plugs but not sure I feel like installing/torquing them. Should be relatively cheap at my local shop.